I didn’t include all of the details behind he reasoning of the catch can in my last post. The car has a bad hesitation when you really get on the gas. After pulling the spark plugs I noticed significant oil on the plugs and on the pistons. This had me concerned about rings not seating, rings installed improperly, etc. Or, perhaps sucking liquid oil through the PCV hose.
The valley pan I have is an aftermarket aluminum piece from Butler Performance. The valley pan has a baffled piece of aluminum tubing for the PCV. I bought a few things to try and troubleshoot the problem. I bought the catch can to see just how much oil was getting sucked into the intake system. The video below shows the oil collected after only about 20 miles. It may have been about a shot glass full. Needless to say it was significant. As a precaution I bought a leak down tester to try and rule out the rings. The numbers looked good with only around 5% leakdown. Next I plugged the old PCV setup installed a set of Earl’s Performance valve cover breathers with a PCV valve built in to rule out oil being sucked through the valley pan. Turns out this was the problem. After the same 20 miles trip I showed no oil in the catch can this time. A change out of the fouled spark plugs and I should be back in business.
Decided to try out a Mishimoto oil catch can. This device is utilizes a bronze sintered vent in line of the PCV system to collect oil vapor which condenses to liquid as it passes through the vent. The bottom of the canister unscrews to dump the collected oil. A machined aluminum bracket that I made locates the piece nicely on the cylinder head. A nylon insulator will be machined to sandwich between the bracket and cylinder head to shield the parts from heat. Nylon is a decent insulator having roughly one thousandth of the thermal conductivity of aluminum and is stable up to around 400F.
The part comes with plastic NPT fittings with 3/8″ barbs. These fittings were replaced with Aeroquip AN fittings. Aeroquip pushlock hoses will connect the system.
This bracket was made to replace the stock brake distribution block bracket. The stock bracket located the rubber flex line too close to the Pypes crossflow exhaust. Also, the Moroso cast aluminum diff cover position one of the brackets that held the brake line to the rear end about a 1/2″ rearward. This adjustable bracket did the trick.
The alternator belt I had never sat in the pulley groove correctly which caused the belt to squeal. I suspect when I bought the alternator I picked one for the wrong year which didn’t match the hodge-podge of other components. I found a machined aluminum pulley by a company called CVF racing. Their prices are great but they don’t include anodizing or powdercoat that some of the other more expensive companies offer. Quality is excellent so I plan to switch the other pulleys over in time and will probably have them black anodized at a local shop. The old pulley came off with the removal of the nut and new piece slid right into place. Ultimately this will all be replaced with a serpentine setup but I have bigger fish to fry at the moment.
The reassembly of the pinion seal seemed to be without issue. Time will tell if the pinion bearings were loaded correctly since the correct way to preload the bearings is without the guts installed. While the car was on jack stands and the old stamped steel diff cover was off I decided to add a Moser aluminum cover. It also felt like a good time to upgrade the rear sway bar. The new piece is from Pro-touringf-body. The assembly is very straight forward. The new piece is 7/8″ compared to the factor 3/4″ diameter. One other key difference is that the new sway bar is adjustable. The pictured location is a fair compromise between the diff cover and muffler. I’ll attempt to move the muffler back some in order to also get the sway bar further rearward which will reduce the stiffness. Where the bar sits now leaves a moment arm of 1/2″ less than stock. With the added diameter this may be too stiff with a factory front bar. U-bolts were left long because I’m almost certain that an additional 1 to 1.5″ lowering blocks will be needed.