Archive for the ‘Suspension’ Category

Eastwood Brake Gray

Saturday, August 8th, 2009

With the radiator support complete, attention was focused on other front-end parts such as the steering box, master cylinder, and heater box. The steering box and master cylinder each received two coats of Eastwood’s Brake Gray. This coating claims “excellent” corrosion and brake fluid resistance. The color is good as the shade of gray appears to be somewhere between cast aluminum and cast iron. The coating contains particles of 316L stainless steel. The price is not cheap at $20 a can and of course Eastwood gouges it’s customers on shipping. For a single aerosol can the shipping is about $10. Needless to say this better work.

The final project of the day was to mask and paint the heater box. The area was scuffed with a red scotchbrite pad and then wiped down with wax and grease remover. Next a coat of Crest’s Hi-Build Flexible Primer Surfacer was applied to the heater box. After the primer was allowed to dry three caots of U-Pol’s flat black was applied. Next week the blower motor will be painted with a higher gloss finish than the rest. After some drying time the tape on the firewall was removed. The flat black on the heater box breaks up some of the semi-gloss over the rest of the firewall nicely.

Coil Springs

Saturday, May 16th, 2009

Today the coil springs, lower control arms, spindles, and shocks were installed on the subframe. Front coil springs are Eibach 3852-120 1.0″-2.0″ drop, purchased from Summit. The rear leaf springs had settled more than the original stock coil springs which caused the front to sit higher than the rear. Hopefully the drop springs will atleast level the car and maybe give the car slightly aggressive stance. The KYB gas-a-just shocks were scuffed and painted black then installed. The shocks are stock length which I read would work with the Eibach shocks.

Better Ball Joints and Stainless Fuel Lines

Saturday, May 9th, 2009

After the top ball joints were bolted in and there was so much trouble pressing the lower ball joint in I got a tip that the ball joints that I got from NAPA were actually their budget models which sometimes don’t take grease that well. The top two ball joints were removed along with the lower ball joint that wasn’t fully pressed anyway. The cheap ones were exchanged for the better kind. Unfortunately they were almost double the price but the quality difference could be spotted from a mile away. So be sure to insist on NAPA’s premium ball joints when replacing if you don’t mind paying a little more. After the ball joints were finally pressed in, the control arms were scuffed with a scotch-brite then the bushings taped and a second coat of a paint applied.

Since I’m upgrading to a Tremec 5 speed, the Classic Chevy 5-speed kit comes with all of the necessary parts to do the changeover. The first of these parts to go one was the clutch bar frame bracket. Even the cars equipped with automatic transmissions like mine came with the holes pre-drilled for this bracket. To fasten the bracket to the frame I tapped these holes with a 5/16-24 tap. The holes were the correct size for this tap and did not have to be drilled first. Three 5/16-24 x 1″ stainless steel screws with a small bead of Loc-Tite fastened the two together. The last project of the day was to begin installing the stainless brake/fuel lines to the subframe that were purchased from National Parts Depot.

Clips and Shocks

Saturday, May 2nd, 2009

All of the steering components, fuel/brake line clips, and motor mounts have been blasted and painted. The small brake/fuel line clips and bolts were too small to spray so they were dipped to ensure good coverage. The front KYB gas-a-just shocks were scuffed with a scotch-brite and painted black to match the other suspension components.

Front Suspension Bushings

Saturday, April 11th, 2009

Today’s work began with pressing the Prothane polyurethane bushings back into the control arms. A piece of exhaust pipe was cut slightly off center on a bandsaw (a wood bandsaw modified now for metal). The semi-circular tube was cut to where the piece would just barely fit between the two bushing holes on the control arm. An old piece of small diamter hose was sliced on one side such that it was slip over each of the bare pipe ends to minimize scratches to the paint. This tool kept the control arm form bending while pressing the bushings in place. A bushing was pressed into one side then the cross bar was pressed into that bushing. The control arm was flipped around to press the second bushing in. The minor scratches will be touched up when the ball joints are fastened in place.