Posts Tagged ‘Eastwood’

Master Cylinder and Brake Booster

Saturday, April 10th, 2010

The brake booster and master cylinder were installed on the firewall.  The two pieces were painted with Eastwood Brake Gray which has a nice cast appearance.  Today I got a hard lesson in double checking the headers to make sure there’s nothing contacting them before starting the engine.  The steering column is not yet connected to the steering box.  The plastic cylindrical case that snaps around the steering column was touching the headers as they heated and melted.  This left a round black spot of melted plastic on the header.  I bought some plastic scrapers to try and remove the burn mark next week.


Tying Up Loose Ends

Sunday, August 16th, 2009

The Trans Am’s blower motor was masked and painted with Sem’s Gloss Black. After a few coats it was allowed to dry. Next the brake booster received its final cleaning and prep. The small plastic areas were masked and shot with Sem’s black Self Etching Primer. After a few minutes of dry time the booster was coated with Eastwood Brake Gray for a natural metal finish. Lastly, the steering box was finally mounted to the subframe. Today was mostly about tying up loose ends and getting ready for the rebuilt Pontiac 400 motor and Tremec trans. The last projects before the engine is picked up is re-wrapping the wire harness along with installing the rest of the brake and fuel lines.

Eastwood Brake Gray

Saturday, August 8th, 2009

With the radiator support complete, attention was focused on other front-end parts such as the steering box, master cylinder, and heater box. The steering box and master cylinder each received two coats of Eastwood’s Brake Gray. This coating claims “excellent” corrosion and brake fluid resistance. The color is good as the shade of gray appears to be somewhere between cast aluminum and cast iron. The coating contains particles of 316L stainless steel. The price is not cheap at $20 a can and of course Eastwood gouges it’s customers on shipping. For a single aerosol can the shipping is about $10. Needless to say this better work.

The final project of the day was to mask and paint the heater box. The area was scuffed with a red scotchbrite pad and then wiped down with wax and grease remover. Next a coat of Crest’s Hi-Build Flexible Primer Surfacer was applied to the heater box. After the primer was allowed to dry three caots of U-Pol’s flat black was applied. Next week the blower motor will be painted with a higher gloss finish than the rest. After some drying time the tape on the firewall was removed. The flat black on the heater box breaks up some of the semi-gloss over the rest of the firewall nicely.

Use Eastwood’s Rust Converter With Caution

Saturday, March 28th, 2009

Today was dissapointing. Last week the two part Rust Converter/Encapsulator was applied just as the directions say. “Apply part A and wait overnight. If more protection is desired apply part B, or else scuff and apply topcoat.” I took this to mean if you are applying part B you don’t have to scuff. Evidently this is incorrect or there is something wrong with the part B Encapsulator. When it came time to scuff the part B in order to paint, much of it easily flaked off. Especially at corners and edges. I didn’t want this to bite me in the rear later so I made the hard desicion to blast it all off. This time I didn’t mess with the Eastwood stuff and used a self etching primer under a top coat of SEM’s black semi-gloss Rust-Shield paint. Fortunately blasting was a breeze this time around and it didn’t take long. The self etch primer only takes a few minutes to dry and was able to paint the sub frame today after all. I’ll keep researching what went wrong with the Eastwood rust encapsulator and post when I get a response. The sand, primer, and paint ran out so the control arms will have to wait until next week.

Sub-frame Prep – More Sand Blasting

Saturday, March 21st, 2009

Today the sub-frame was brought out of the garage for sandblasting. It had been completely dis-assembled the week before. A small 20lb pressurized sand blaster was purchased from Harbor Freight. It works really well. I would’ve bought the 40lb for about $20 more but it was out of stock. The only problem is that sand blasting drains the compressor so fast it takes a good amount of time to build back up. I did come up with a decent solution for this. Two compressors were connected together in order to allow a good amount of continuous air. I bought two check valves from Grainger (part # 6D914) for about $9 a piece that coupled to a Tee fitting. The two compressors fed into each check valve and into each side of the Tee fitting. The single Tee outlet went to the blaster. This allowed a continous supply of air without each compressor working against each other. The blaster ran out of sand long before I ran out of air. Blasting all of that grease and undercoating easily swallowed up most of the day. There was still a little time left to wipe the sub-frame down with degreaser and put the first coat of Eastwood’s Rust Converter. Tomorrow I’ll apply the second part Rust Encapsulator so that it can be painted next week.