Posts Tagged ‘Rust Converter’

Use Eastwood’s Rust Converter With Caution

Saturday, March 28th, 2009

Today was dissapointing. Last week the two part Rust Converter/Encapsulator was applied just as the directions say. “Apply part A and wait overnight. If more protection is desired apply part B, or else scuff and apply topcoat.” I took this to mean if you are applying part B you don’t have to scuff. Evidently this is incorrect or there is something wrong with the part B Encapsulator. When it came time to scuff the part B in order to paint, much of it easily flaked off. Especially at corners and edges. I didn’t want this to bite me in the rear later so I made the hard desicion to blast it all off. This time I didn’t mess with the Eastwood stuff and used a self etching primer under a top coat of SEM’s black semi-gloss Rust-Shield paint. Fortunately blasting was a breeze this time around and it didn’t take long. The self etch primer only takes a few minutes to dry and was able to paint the sub frame today after all. I’ll keep researching what went wrong with the Eastwood rust encapsulator and post when I get a response. The sand, primer, and paint ran out so the control arms will have to wait until next week.

Sub-frame Prep – More Sand Blasting

Saturday, March 21st, 2009

Today the sub-frame was brought out of the garage for sandblasting. It had been completely dis-assembled the week before. A small 20lb pressurized sand blaster was purchased from Harbor Freight. It works really well. I would’ve bought the 40lb for about $20 more but it was out of stock. The only problem is that sand blasting drains the compressor so fast it takes a good amount of time to build back up. I did come up with a decent solution for this. Two compressors were connected together in order to allow a good amount of continuous air. I bought two check valves from Grainger (part # 6D914) for about $9 a piece that coupled to a Tee fitting. The two compressors fed into each check valve and into each side of the Tee fitting. The single Tee outlet went to the blaster. This allowed a continous supply of air without each compressor working against each other. The blaster ran out of sand long before I ran out of air. Blasting all of that grease and undercoating easily swallowed up most of the day. There was still a little time left to wipe the sub-frame down with degreaser and put the first coat of Eastwood’s Rust Converter. Tomorrow I’ll apply the second part Rust Encapsulator so that it can be painted next week.

Floorpans in Paint

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

The floorpans were finally painted today!  Eastwood’s two part rust converter was used on a few small patches of surface rust.  Then the entire area was scuffed with a scotchbrite pad.  The upper rocker panel was then taped off so Crest’s “Chip Coat” could be applied to the lower section only.

This was allowed to dry for an hour or so and then the floor pans and Chip Coat was sprayed with Sem’s gloss black Rust-Shield.


Next week the firewall will be painted with semi-gloss black and subframe will be stripped down for cleaning and paint.

Metal work done!

Sunday, November 16th, 2008

Today didn’t yield much progress but a good milestone was met.  All of the metal work on the Trans Am’s body shell is finally finished.  A square hole was cut under the windshield channel to remove the rusted area.  A square patch of sheetmetal cut to have roughly a 1/16″  gap on all sides was held in place for welding.  To match the existing contour, the patch was placed beside the cut out and lightly tapped with a body hammer to form the radius.  The patch was welded and the welds ground flush.  A thin coat of All-Metal was skimmed over the area and sanded smooth with 100 grit sandpaper on a foam block.  Eastwood’s Rust Converter was applied to the opposite side with a sponge to prevent any remaining surface rust from spreading further.


Damage to the t-top area was very minor.  Most of this area was taken care of while working on the roof.  A small patch and a series of welds ground smooth did the trick.  Next step will be spraying some self-etching primer on any bare metal areas and then a coat of high build primer around the windshield channel.  After that it’s on to the dreaded job of cleaning underneath the front floor pans.

Background – Trans Am

Wednesday, October 22nd, 2008

This is my first post detailing the progress of my resto-mod ‘81 Trans Am. I’ll try to keep the blog updated each week as much as possible. First a little background on the car. I bought the car around 2001 for about $2500. I was lucky enough to find a Y84 Special Edition Trans Am (or Bandit Edition as some call it).  The car originally came from Florida and wasn’t in bad shape but not great either.  It had been painted within the last decade or so with a budget paint job.  The paint was faded and all original decals gone, except for some remnants which had started to bleed back through.  After a little exhaust work from a local shop, the clogged cat was replaced and ran decently for a couple of years. It suffered from leaky t-tops as most older Trans Ams do. All that water did a number on the interior over the years. With musky old car smell and tattered seats I didn’t have much money so I drove the car as is, even as my daily driver for about 6 months when my main car died. In ’05 I decided to move away from my hometown to finish my degree in Mechanical Engineering. The car sat idle and forgotten for the next two years.