Dynamat

Completed installation of the Dynamat on the floor pans today.  It’s really straight forward and easy to install.  I bought the heavy duty rubber roller with the wooden handle sold under the Dynamat name.  I started out using a cheap plastic roller.  I would definitely recommend paying the extra for the better roller.  Just remember to wear gloves when installing.  It took me two deep cuts on the same finger before I got the point.

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It would be my guess that all the major brands of this type of sound deadening are exactly the same.  Thin aluminum sheet adhered to an 1/16″ of sticky butyl backing but what can I say, I’m a sucker for name brands.  It is expensive but a ton of money can be saved by making your purchase from Amazon or Ebay.  In fact, the bulk pack is nearly $100 cheaper from these websites, making it just about the same price as the Summit brand.  It doesn’t go as far as you think it would.  I’m working on my second pack which are both 36 square feet so you’ll need the cost savings.

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7 Responses to “Dynamat”

  1. martin says:

    Hi Zach, your coming on very with the car i see, great job.
    you’ll finish this year so you’ll have to find another project.
    I just wanted to ask your opinion on POR15, have you used it ? what do you think?. Is it what i should spray / use in the chasis rails where i cant brush.
    could you recomend some other prehaps. Happy new year by the way. Thanks in advance

  2. Zach says:

    Happy new year to you as well. Thanks for the compliment! I hope to be driving this year at least. Not sure if I’ll ever be finished. There will always be something to tweak, modify, or upgrade I suppose. As for the POR15, it was actually used on the GTO. POR15 doesn’t have any UV protection so it’s good for frame rails, floor pans and things that don’t see sunlight unless you topcoat. Here’s quote from their FAQ page:

    “If the surface is exposed to the sun for an extended amount of time, the UV rays will eventually break down the POR-15 and cause it to fail. That’s why we recommend you topcoat it.”

    http://www.por15.com/faq.asph

    After about 8 years on the floor pans of the GTO it still looks great. No top coat was used on the GTO underside floor pans. Unless it’s changed I think you have to use their own top coat if you’re using one. Let me know if you find out that’s not the case.

    SEM’s Rust Shield was used on the Trans Am for literally almost everything except the body (including sub-frame, control arms, floor pans, rear-end, etc). The link below is from an old post when I was working on the floor pans. SEM’s makes a spray wand that’s great for getting in between panels and into areas you ordinarily don’t have access to.
    http://www.geraldsgto.com/trans-am/floorpans-in-paint/

    Rust Shield can supposedly be applied directly over rust just like POR15. POR15 is more expensive than the Rust Shield. If using Rust Shield I think I would remove all the rust you can. Rust Shield can be touched up really easily with a brush or touch up gun which is really handy after you knock the paint off of your bolts when you fasten them. I used Eastwood’s two part rust converter on a few parts. If I had to do it again I would just use the Sem’s. There’s another product that I like to use to get rid of rust in small areas which is Krud Kutter brand “Rust Remover Gel”. It neutralizes the rust after an application or two. Wash off the residue or use a small wire brush and then coat. It’s hard to find and it’s expensive. I bought some off of Amazon.com and paid about $16 after shipping. It’s worth it though.

    As far as a recommendations between the two, I guess it depends on the condition of the parts your coating. If you have a lot of rust I would recommend POR15 all the way. If the metal is clean, has been blasted, or it’s going over quite a bit of factory paint I’d recommend the Rust Shield. The Trans Am was super clean and not much rust at all. All suspension parts were blasted clean before coating. They both are great products and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with either one you go with. Have you done much yet? I’d love to see the progress!

  3. martin says:

    thanks for taking the time to reply, very informative answer, not much progrees yet on my gold 78, i’ll try to send pics when i get a chance

  4. Zach says:

    No problem at all, glad I could help. I hope I didn’t make the decision harder for you, hah. Let me know which one you go with and what your thoughts are on it. I’ll be waiting on the pics!

  5. Tom Foolry says:

    Sweet! Glad that this is all coming together as well as it is! I know that Dynamat has several different versions (e.g. xTreme), so what kind did you get, and how’s it working out for you? Thanks!

  6. Zach says:

    Hey Tom. Thanks for showing some interest in the site. I went with Dynamat Xtreme. Here are the few reasons that helped me make my decision:

    “…The Original kit offers the best value for the money. The Xtreme kit controls vibration four times better than Dynamat Original and requires no heat for installation. Self-adhesive….”
    http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_door_kit.html

    1. The vibration dampening performance of Dynamat Xtreme is about 4 times better than Dynamat Original :

    Original:
    “…The theoretical maximum loss factor is 1 (no vibration). An undamped 1mm thick steel panel has a loss factor of roughly 0.001 at 200 Hz. Dynamat Xtreme applied to that panel would increase the loss factor to 0.417 @ +68°F…”
    http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_xtreme.html

    Xtreme:
    “…An undamped 1mm thick steel panel has a loss factor of roughly 0.001 at 200 Hz. Dynamat Original applied to that panel would increase the loss factor to 0.14 @ +50°F…”
    http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_original.html

    2. Bonding strength of Xtreme is about five times better and requires no heat to bond well:

    Dynamat Original Adhesive Peel Strength (Bond strength):
    8.6 lbs/inch (15N/cm) on cold steel
    http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_original.html

    Dynamat Xtreme Adhesive Peel Strength (Bond strength):
    42.6 lbs/inch (74.8N/cm) on cold steel
    http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_xtreme.html

    3. Thickness is about the same but the Xtreme weighs about 33% less than Dynamat Original.

    Dynamat Original
    Thickness:
    0.070″ (1.78mm)
    Mass:
    0.68lb./ft2 (3.32kg/m2)
    http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_original.html

    Dynamat Xtreme
    Thickness:
    0.067″ (1.7mm)
    Mass:
    0.45lb./ft2 (2.20kg/m2)
    http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_xtreme.html

    Unfortunately Dynamat hasn’t listed any technical specs on the Superlite yet. I’ll probably use their Dynaliner product over the trans hump for heat reduction. I haven’t been able to test the performance yet since I haven’t started the car since the Dyanmat was installed. As soon as I get it on the road I’ll definitely give an update on the performance. Hope this helps.If you have any more questions, let me know! Have you been following the site for a while or did you just stumble across it?

  7. Tom Foolry says:

    Sweet! You answered just about everything, thanks for the awesome response! I just stumbled across your site, looking at what kinds of dynamat people are using and what their thoughts on them are.

    Right now, I think the fact that Xtreme doesn’t require heat to install may be enough for me to go ahead and try it out. Thanks again!

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